Soju, a Korean distilled spirit, dates back to the 13th century during the country’s Goryeo Dynasty. It was traditionally made from rice, but modern versions often use sweet potatoes, tapioca or other starches.
A new brand, KHEE, was created to bring soju back to its original Korean heritage by using traditional ingredients and methods. Yuna Shin, a Los Angeles-based bartender and KHEE brand ambassador, recently led a virtual tasting of two soju expressions.
KHEE was founded in 2021 in Korea by Eva Chow, an entrepreneur and former operator of the world-famous restaurant, Mr Chow. The soju brand expanded to the U.S. market in 2023.
Why go back to making it with rice? Shin explained that in 1965, South Korea imposed a ban on using rice to brew alcohol, to alleviate a rice shortage. Brewers had to adapt by using other starches and had to change the traditional distilled way to diluted alcohol, which altered the flavor.
After the ban on using rice was lifted in 1999, many producers went back to making soju the traditional way, though diluted soju remained popular and mass produced. Chow wanted to bring rice-based soju to a global audience in an elevated way, Shin said.
Made only with rice from South Korea, natural rock water (from 150 meters underground) and yeast, KHEE soju rests in microporous Onggi earthenware for 180 days. The microporous vessel lets some air in, which adds texture and flavor, Shin said.
The KHEE 22, which is 22% ABV, has a delicate scent of flowers and a silky texture, with a subtle fruit taste that lingers, according to the tasting notes. The 38%-ABV KHEE 38 starts with a rich aroma like wine and ends with a strong mineral taste. In addition to served straight and chilled, it makes a good base for spirit-forward cocktails. Along with the soju tasting, Shin led a highball cocktail making demonstration. Both KHEE expressions are available in 350-ml. and 750-ml. formats, with suggested retail pricing ranging from $32.99 to $64.99.
